England's Green and Pleasant Land -- Day Two 

To begin our second day in England, we first headed to the ancient seaside town of Lyme Regis, perhaps most famous for being the location of John Fowles's novel, The French Lieutenant's Woman, and the movie of the same name, starring Meryl Streep. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFZPSQKjwwc

Fowles was not the first author to sense the literary attraction of the famous breakwater -- The Cobb -- which also figured in Jane Austen's novel, Persuasion.

The dramatic, picturesque, serpentine structure surrounding the tiny harbor dates back to the early part of the 19th century (although the first breakwater was built on this site in the 1300's and the curved shape itself dates back at least until the early 1500's.) 

All she needs is the cape ....

In honor of Liza's alma mater, we then drove on to the original Exeter, where the River Exe is crossed by means of a manually powered ferry.

The Ferryman pulls the cable to get the boat across the river 

He admits it's not a lot of work ...

The main attraction in the town is the Cathedral, built from around 1100 through around 1400. 

There is always work going on at these old cathedrals

This is said to be the longest unsupported arched roof in all of England and Europe. Almost 320 feet.

This clock in the Cathedral dates back to the mid-1400's.

Keep pretty good time ...

The breathtaking structure aside, what I found most fascinating in the Cathedral were the memorial plaques that line the walls. There were of course, noble monuments to the local regiments and the sacrifices made in wars throughout the centuries.

It was also the poignant stories told, and the sentiments expressed about husbands and wives and children, that I found quite touching. The inherent social commentary is also interesting.  Here are a few that caught my particular attention. They speak for themselves.

We were headed to Topsham -- according to the signs, The Ancient Port of Exeter -- in search of what was reputed to be England's finest chippy (fish 'n chips joint.) Along the way we came upon this pub -- The Bridge -- dating back to the 1600's and run for more than the last hundred years by the same family. 

It's said to be the only pub in England ever visited by the Queen. Here's the inside story: http://www.cheffers.co.uk/royvis.html

Topsham is a lovely riverside community.

There are some beautfiul restorations along the river

Low tide on the River Exe.




.

Now the Ancient Port is strictly recreational

With some effort -- and it was well worth it! -- we found the Fish Shed, at Darts Farm, which is an extensive fancy food complex and shopping experience.

The Fish 'n Chips are not served wrapped in the Daily mail any longer. Some sort of nanny-state health directive, no doubt.

Nonetheless, this was an outstanding meal; not only the traditional chippy, but   also Louise's Thai fish cakes. We had to order the mushy peas side dish. How can one resist the name?

Lustleigh -- another of the Most Beautiful Villages in England -- offered some excellent hiking (for which we had no time) so we simply dipped in and out.

I want to pull the roof of my house and replace it with thatch ....

It seems that everyone in England has a well-developed green thumb 

Next we headed to Plymouth, from whence our Pilgrim ancestors departed these shores for our shores. It's a formidable harbour guarded by an enormous and powerful citadel.

The Mayflower is a big deal in Plymouth.

This is more or less the spot from where the Mayflower put out from Plymouth 

Descending the Mayflower Steps

Original Pilgrims

Modern-day Pilgrim

Other colonists also departed Plymouth for the New World.

Plymouth was also the port from which sailed Sir Francis Drake, the most accomplished of all the Elizabethan seafarers. Not only did he successfully circumnavigate the globe, but he was an extremely successful pirate. The treasure he liberated from the Spaniards -- 50% of which went directly to the Crown - made up more than half of all the Crown revenues in those years. 

His statue stands high above the Hoe -- the vast seaside plateau upon which in July of 1588, Drake's game of bowls is said to have been interrupted by news of the imminent arrival of the Spanish Armada. First he finished his game and then he sailed out and defeated the Armada.

Other impressive monuments on the Hoe commemorate the Royal Navy's losses during the two World wars.

And there is this imposing lighthouse.

The River Tamar separates Devon from Cornwall. Right alongside the modern suspension bridge that carries the highway is the most astonishing piece of  mid-19th century engineering: Isambard Kingdom Brunel's Royal Albert Bridge, carrying the railway into Cornwall.

The bridge looks almost space-age today, yet as you can see by the tribute placed on the bridge by Brunel's friends following his death (not long after this bridge was completed) the wrought-iron structure (designed and built before the advent of steel!) is more than 150 years old.

This is what it looked like from our car

Brunel was one of the great geniuses of his age -- of any age. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isambard_Kingdom_Brunel

And finally, as night was falling, we arrived at our ultimate destination for this day and the next, Polperro: a tiny Cornish port and village (once a smuggling hot-spot, now supported by fishing and tourism.)

The Old Mill at the entrance to the village

View of the harbour from our window. Low tide again ....